The surfboards we ride today have come along way to become as good as they are. Many men have dedicated their lives to the pursuit of shaping/developing a better board. Advances in surfboard design over the years range from size, weight and shape, to fins, to the materials used, to different boards designed for different waves.
Surfboard design has always been a very personal thing. Shapers tend to be surfers themselves, and board design is as much an engineering feat as it is a love for surfing. Professional surfers work closely with shapers, as each surfer rides waves differently, and they know better than anyone how their surfboard needs to perform. The design process of a surfboard has always been a case of trial and error. A template is designed, and then experimented with in the water, then feedback is considered and alterations are made accordingly.
Ancient Hawaiian surfboards
In the early days of surfing in ancient Hawaii. Surfing was a deeply spiritual affair, from the art of riding waves itself, to praying for good surf, to rituals surrounding building a surfboard. Surfing was not only a recreational activity, it was also a training exercise for Hawaiian chiefs and a means of conflict resolution. There were two kinds of surfboard in these times, an ‘Olo’ (rode by the chiefs or the noblemen known as the ‘Alii’) and a ‘Alaia’ (rode by the commoners). The wooden boards were made using the Wili Wili, the Ula and the Koa tree’s. And ranged from 10 to 16 feet long depending on social class… 10-12 feet for commoners and 14-16 feet for the noblemen and chiefs.
The decline and rise of surfing
In the late 18th century the arrival of Captain Cook to the Hawaiian Islands and later in the mid 19th century when the western/white missionaries arrived surfing almost died out in the islands. At the start of the 20th century the missionaries influence over the islands began to decline and Hawaiians along with the new European and American settlers began surfing again. One of these was George Freeth, who through his surfing, experimented with board design, and cut his 16 foot Hawaiian board in half. Making the typical solid redwood Hawaiian board of the time to around 6 to 10 foot long. George took his shorter board to California and became the first professional surfer, promoting a railway company in Los Angelos, California.
The hollow board
The next major change in surfboard design was in 1926 when one of the most famous names in surf history; Tom Blake designed the first hollow surfboard. The board was constructed of redwood, it had hundreds of holes drilled in it and was encased with a thin board of wood on top and bellow the board. The board was 15 foot long, 19″ wide, 4″ thick and weighed 100 lbs. This new design was at first ridiculled by local Hawaiian’s jokingly calling it the ‘Cigar Board’, until they saw how much faster it was in the water. Blake’s hollow surfboard became a great success and became the first mass-produced board in 1930. Blake also created the ‘fixed fin’ in 1935. This was a small fin attached to the bottom of the board at the tail to allow surfers to manouevre better and give the boards more stability.
The Hot Curl board
The next major step in surboard design came in 1934. Inspired by Blake’s design, a group of surfers in Hawaii began experimenting with the tail size of the surfboard, shaving off parts of the tail and rail of the boards to get rid of the square tail. This gave the surfboard more maneuverability, allowing more radical surf maneuver’s. This group of surfers included Wally Froiseth, John Kelly and Fran Heath. These new boards were called ‘hot curl’ boards, named because the boards allowed the surfer to maneuver into the ‘curl’ of the wave and ride in the pipe.
Redwood, Balsa and Plywood
In 1932 Balsa wood from South America became a popular material for building surfboards. The new balsa wood boards only weighed around 30 to 40 pounds apposed to the 90 to 100 pound redwood boards. The boards had several coats of varnish applied to waterproof them. Such a reduction in weight was a major step forward in board design, and became more and more in demand. The problem at that time was that balsa wood was hard to get hold of in large quantities, and so boards were constructed from both balsa and redwood, thanks to the recently contrived waterproof glue. Both woods have different properties, the balsa is light in weight and the redwood is tough/durable. And so the centre of the boards was constructed of balsa and the rails of the tougher redwood to strengthen the boards. Plywood was also later used around the time of World War One.
The end of World War Two opened up new possibilities in surfboard design. Many new materials had become available through advances in technology during the war. Fibreglass was the most significant of these, also there was plastics and styrofoam. The first fibreglass board was built by a man named Pete Peterson in 1946, this surfboard was a hollow plastic mould, with a redwood stringer (a piece of wood running down the centre of the surfboard) and sealed with fibreglass tape.
Other pioneering modern surfboard shapers of this era were Joe Quigg and Matt Kivlin. Around this time a very significant man in surf history called Bob Simmons was building balsa wood surfboards and travelling up and down the Californian coast to surf and sell his boards. It wasn’t until 1949 when Simmons first fully made use of the fibreglass technology. His first attempt was a surfboard called the ‘sandwich’. This board had a styrofoam core, encased in a thin layer of plywood, with balsa wood rails and was coated in fibreglass.
It was a man named Dale Velzy that took surfing a further step forward. Velzy was a well liked character in California, a talented surfer and a skilled shaper. He opened up his own surf shop and designed and built surfboards. He took all the shaping knowledge from innovators such as Quigg, Kivlin and Simmons and improved on it, creating the ‘pig board’ and later the ‘sausage board’. Velzy’s surfboards were in great demand, and so he took on a local sufer named Hap Jacobs (another big name in surf history) and taught him to shape. Balsa wood boards were still around for awhile while experimentation with foam continued. The development of polyurethane foam in surfboards came about in around the 1950’s. Surfboards were still between 9 and 11 foot long in the 50’s.
Big wave surfing
In the mid to late 50’s Hawaii had become very popular for its big waves. Many Californian’s rushed to the islands to surf these giant waves, including famous names like Greg Noll, Miki Dora and George Downing (to name but a few). George Downing was one of the men responsible for developing the modern ‘gun’ surfboard. It was named a ‘gun’ as it is the surfers’ means of hunting down the big waves. The gun board was long and narrow making them easier to paddle out to the bigger waves and easier to control on the steep face of the wave.
Surfing in Australia
Australia had first been introduced to surfing in 1915 by the great Duke Kahanamoku. But it wasn’t until 1956 when modern surfing truly arrived down under. And it arrived in the form of a group of Californian surfers/lifeguards. The Californian’s brought with them the new Malibu boards made by Joe Quigg and Velzy/Jacobs. Local Aussie’s were stunned by the Californian’s maneuvering abilities. The Californians’ presence had a big impact on the Australian surf scene, and many Aussie’s wanted the new fiberglass Malibu boards.
A few local Aussie’s bought some of the touring Californian’s boards off them, and started to experiment with the boards, imitating their designs. Although at the time balsa wood was very hard to obtain, so the Aussie’s replaced much of the balsa in the boards with plywood. As production problems were overcome, the new boards became very popular and the new Malibu boards went into mass-production. Through the coming years the Aussie’s continued to further progress the design of the surfboard…
The short-board, twin fins and the surf leash
It wasn’t until the late 60’s to early 70’s that the short-board came onto the surf scene. The average length of the surfboard went from 10 to 6 foot, with an obvious reduction in weight. These new boards allowed surfers to ride in the pocket of the wave and so were named the ‘pocket rocket’ board. Dick Brewer is credited with it’s design. These new boards allowed faster, more aggressive surf and more maneuverability. It was around this time that the twin fin was created, apposed to just the one. Two fins gave the boards more stability in the water. Other changes were made to the board like alterations to the rail shapes, tails, bottom contour of the boards, the height of the rocker… anything to enable more speed and maneuverability.
Also in 1966, Nat Young (an Australian surfer) won the World Championships on a shortboard called ‘Sam’ designed by George Greenough and Bob McTavish. This board allowed greater performance style surfing with sharper turns and greater acceleration, which kick-started the ‘short-board revolution’.
The short-board design went through many experimental changes, one of which being different tail shapes to increase stability in the water and further enhance its maneuverability, this innovation was known as the ‘pintail’. A flexible fin system was also devised to allow surfers to add or remove as many fins as they saw fit, to tailor boards to their own style of surfing, this was also a great cost saver as new fins would not have to be glassed on every time they broke. And in 1971 the surf leash was created by one of Jack O’Neill’s sons, much to the relief of frustrated surfers all over the world.
Three Fin Thrusters
Having three fins on a board was an idea sharpers had been experimenting with for years. But it wasn’t until 1981 when Aussie surfer Simon Anderson designed the three fin ‘thruster’ board that the idea caught on. The three fin design took the best features of the single and twin fin systems and made them work harmoniously together, giving the boards even more control in the pocket.
Popout and Foam boards
The idea of a ‘popout’ board was that they had all the qualities of the modern short-board, but they were manufactured more cheaply, and so more affordable. It was an Australian named Shane Steadman who came up with the idea in the 1970’s. Later ‘foamboards’ were developed that were safer and easier to learn on.
To the future…
From the 80’s onwards surfboards haven’t changed too fundamentally. Board artwork has become popular; the art of airbrushing and painting surfboards, one of the pioneers of which being COTW featured surf artist Drew Brophy. Surfboards have become a lot thinner and lighter, allowing more radical surf and aerial maneuver’s. And in the mid-90’s the almost forgotten long-board came back onto the scene and is still a popular choice amongst surfers today, particularly with the learners and the older surfers.
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Nowadays there are surfboards for every type of wave. The ‘gun’ is still popular for big surf, the ‘fish’ is a new variation of the short-board, the cheaper and safer foamboards are used widely by surf school’s and of course the Malibu or long-board and the short-boards will always be popular choices.